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Sometimes your alone in the Philippines even when your not Mar 11

One of my biggest problems I have in the Philippines is meeting people face to face with an interest on the same topics as most of the country is very inwards in information etc. you hear very little of outside news. For example I was surprised about the rail crash on the Eurostar. But only found it by accident while browsing the BBC headlines on the itouch. Nobody seems that interested in the elections currently going on purely because they know the corruption won’t change. But its funny when you meet up or visit someone who has similar thoughts etc and just glad to air views and have a real discussion about everything in general as not only a ventilation for frustration but just to know that your not going mad and its not just you. Recently I have met up with a friend and it was good to discuss a lot of things as he is in the same situation as we are so the cross referencing and chat was pretty much relevant on all levels. I also have the odd chat online with friends but its not the same as switching off and sitting having a cup of tea. I have also realised over the last few years how many real friends I have as most go their own way and never hear again from them. Or get back in touch only when they need help or information. I hope my friends up in Norwich don’t forget as they are all a good bunch and glad to stay in touch with them all.

I suppose the direction of the post is the fact you can become very isolated in some ways and its not always a good feeling as like tonight my thoughts were of friends and times past many I will probably never see again. Not a manic depressive by the way just thinking back..lol Its also partly my fault as my Cebuano is still slow going on the learning front. Another thing rung true in a conversation I heard though regarding friendship in the Philippines is that a friend didn’t mix with locals because at some point they would be approached for money for donations etc. its something of a yes and no answer for me personally but I know exactly what he was talking about and understand that the problem is he would be offering friendship which would simply be used as a way to extract money ruining any real friendship. From my personal experience though its gone both ways as we have some really good friends who would ask for nothing and be offended if we offered and also others who are in a bit of a grey area.

Don’t get me wrong though I have a great wife, wonderful daughters and wonderful in-laws but sometimes you just want a bit of interaction from people who come from the same origins. The same reason OFW’s form communities abroad.

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Building a kitchen in the Philippines Mar 11

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I was lucky enough to drop by a friends house yesterday on route to pickup the cake for Zoei’s birthday and meet up with my friend John who is going through a lot of the same issues and developments as myself. As well as not being from the pension crowd we are both pretty much living the Philippines at the sharp end as we both need to make a living as well as develop our projects as we go. I visited John last year before a lot of the ongoing projects had even started and it was nice to see how far the work had come as well as exchanging ideas and methods.

John had gone with a similar design to what I would like to do as regards Kitchen construction although John`s is fitted I would be more inclined to go with IMG_0076building modular units so that it can be built ahead of the actual structure which would allow installation a lot faster as soon as the walls etc. were ready for the kitchen to go in. John is doing most of the work himself so obviously that deadline isn’t relevant to his kitchen’s as he cant be in two places at once. I like the look of the finished design as its functional and has a bit of a French kitchen feel. The reason I took the photos was to show the type of design and finish you can get with a bit of work. But also so my father in-law could see the difference as most kitchens here are pre-cast concrete. Which I will also add a photo later once I go to the house as its what has been installed yesterday while I was out. The reason most are made of concrete is one its cheap and two its termite proof. I don’t think John will have any problems with the termites either mind due to his location.

Another method is modular and you can find them in places like Citi hardware but not only is the units overpriced they are made of plastic. I can build 2 kitchens complete for the same price as one of the kitchen units. Even the worktop which is also plastic comes in at around P13,000. If your doing a kitchen in the Philippines advise copying the photos above to show a carpenter what you expect or going with the traditional concrete method. Personally I prefer the wood but Filipinos generally prefer the concrete..lol

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Why is there so many electrical fires in the Philippines? – electrical wiring in the Philippines Mar 11

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One of the major contributing factors is no doubt a lack of ground/earth cabling installed. I purchased some cable last week which we call flat twin and earth in the UK which is basically two strands of cable which are inside a plastic cover with a center core of copper which is your ground. Idea being that if the cables get damaged etc. they will go to ground. Because the Ground/earth has no plastic shielding/cover. But not only was I surprised to find that the copper center core was missing it had been replaced with a piece of plastic as a divider. Its not common practice to run the cables in a single cable either most electricians run like the photo above single strands and all the same colour to save money. Funny thing is though the cost of the twin cable is about the same and obviously takes half the time to install because your only running one cable.

Another factor I discovered is the ratings don’t seem to be correct to the size of cable so would advise comparing the mm dimension to European wiring to get your correct current rating. Because under rating, being put into concrete and no fail safe are pretty much a receipe for disaster which is why we make sure its done properly. Not sure if the electrician who was going to wire the house got offended or wasn’t keen to work alongside a foreigner with western standards but either way he became “too busy” to complete the job and we have now had to source another which luckily enough is the same guy who done the internet cafe.

Some of you may wonder why the ground is also so important it also stops you getting electric shocks off computer cases for example as there is a lot of electricity that needs to get grounded due to static etc. Something people learn from experience.

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Scaffolding in the Philippines Mar 11

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I arrived the other morning to find that work had begun facing the last section of wall with a skim of concrete. But was a bit dubious to the use of scaffolding. It seems sturdy enough but wouldn’t climb it myself. A discussion about it came to the solution that there was a lack of timber so “making do”. Also by the time I arrived it was nearly finished so it was  just as easy to let them carry on. But it is something I am looking to include in further budgets some kind of scaffolding. Preferably aluminium due to the problems and speed of rust here. Most of the building we will be doing in  the future won’t be above second level. Although I am seriously considering designing the lot that we want in the future on a 4 floor design but likely to be built in phases similar to the apartment you see in the photo where the netcafe was finished and the roof was the solid slab of concrete floor from the apartment above. Which didn’t leak even in heavy rain.

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Zoei`s second birthday yesterday Mar 11

 IMG_0072Birthdays always seem to be a big celebration in the Philippines. Not sure if its me that’s getting old and not wanting reminding of my age or its just celebrated more here. We spent most of the day at April`s parents and some relatives dropped by to give birthday wishes and stop for dinner and refreshments. Zoei didn’t seem to aware of it being her birthday but at two she`s more interested in watching TV than anything else and quite happy to munch on bread sticks rather than eating cake. IMG_0137As she gets older no doubt the toy phase will kick in with already knowing what she wants like Nicole who arrives with a complete shopping list. But then again one of the big advantages of the Philippines with all its false advertising on Milk and its TV shows that are constantly “thanking sponsers” is that I have yet to see a single advertisement for children’s toys. I can understand with the poverty levels most people are looking to earn enough just to pay the bills and put food on the table. But then again isn’t the UK getting like that yet it still advertises the latest products to enforce the fact of the “must have” products?

Anyway getting back to the party it was just a small event which was nice as there was no need to try and keep everyone happy as the bigger events we have groups of different people who are only connected together through us which means you have to split your time between tables. Zoei`s birthday was family so the atmosphere was more laid back. Most of the cooking had been arranged with Auntie Jill who lives nearby via Aprils mother. As me and April hadn’t thought about arranging a big event but I can see Zoei is quickly becoming a favourite of Aprils mother.

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We also visited the local Minglanilla church to ligIMG_0096ht candles for Zoei`s birthday im not sure what the candles signify but something related to the Catholic faith and if it keeps everyone happy and gets us out the house for a while it can’t be bad. The only problem with letting Zoei out of the house is she doesn’t want to go back inside. She loves to walk regardless if she knows where she is going or not. So at the Church trying to get a few good photos was difficult to say the least  because as soon as she is on the ground she’s off to explore.

 

 

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Building a house in the Philippines Mar 08

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As you can see our first apartment is near completion with the internet cafe below we also constructed. Many people complain about local methods and lack of professional service. But lets take a step back a little. The problem in the Philippines is so much skilled labour has gone abroad leaving a skeleton staff. More people of handyman level than skilled labour. But remember your only paying P300 a day (general rate currently in Cebu). Material wise you get what you pay for as long as you have someone monitoring your stocks and mixes. The reason being if your paying P300 which is roughly also what your paying a local contract supervisor there is a high case of people lowering the mix of concrete or stocks being low by the time they reach site. Purely because its how they make the money difference up. Your the wealthy foreigner anyway so why you complaining you can afford it right? Well its something that happens too often and something that can easily be avoided. The Project in the picture has cost me over P500,000 including the computers in the internet cafe. At the same time I have spent time every day to monitor the construction and supervise as well as my father in-law who is not only hard working he also has a knowledge of construction in the Philippines. Cross reference that with my nearly 20 years in the British construction industry working from carpenter and electrician upwards. We have pretty much had a smooth run on the project.med_gallery_2032_360_41555

  An important factor on the project was the roof section which is also the floor for the 1st level (2nd level in the U.S.) we used a technique of pouring a slab of concrete over metal sheet. Which is also a technique a lot of sub divisions have adopted. This allows easy pouring without the problems of shuttering. As well as a clean finish. We adopted hollow block on the walls which do have a habit of hairline cracks because of access issues. I would like to use sectional concrete walls on other projects in the future or the poured walls which is another technique. But it all comes down to access and budget. Our projects were based on P160,000 a piece for building construction and we came within that.

But for the future I am also looking to assist others with projects we have our own team of workers here that are already very capable at local level but I am looking to improve the skill as we go. e.g. getting the electrician to change from the single core installations to twin and earth to allow shorting of electrical cables when faulty to trip the mains before a risk of  a fire which is my biggest worry within the Philippines. We wired our buildings the same as the UK for that reason and something I refuse to skimp on. Also mixing traditional local methods with western ones will improve speed and quality of work. There is no point trying to go fully westernised on design and materials etc. because it becomes expensive. Meeting in the middle somewhere that is not only achievable but safe is part of the service we are looking to provide in the future as well as introducing new working practices and techniques with existing materials.

There is also the consultation side of things you may be interested in if you already have relatives etc. doing the construction project. If your just looking for someone to oversee the project every day as well as monitor if your getting value for money. To hire me personally its P20,000 a month which is the going rate within Cebu. Back in the UK I earn upto £350 a day so your getting a lot of skill and knowledge for your money. Why is it so cheap? because im in the Philippines im at home with my wife. The same can be said for house designs etc. everything I can pretty much do or have arranged. There is one difference between asking me and asking someone else and that’s simply I give market value not over and the reason being is my reputation is not only something valuable to me in the Philippines but also in the UK when working there. It is important for me to always provide a better service than anyone else not only for your benefit but the fact is I enjoy my work and expect it to always be grade A.

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Foreigners in the Philippines Mar 08

Lately I have been letting a lot of anti-Filipino talk online get under my skin. From the guy with his retirement village telling people to buy up at least a hectare of land just so they can’t here Filipino Karaoke to the general grumblings of Expats. I just want to say to everyone “don’t forget your a guest”. Immigration fees go up, the TV shows are repeatative and you may think every Filipino you meet is trying to rip you off.. But if that’s the case why are you here?

The TV shows who said you have to watch them? Immigration fees I will give you that but not because of the increases but the fact they regularly change and they don’t keep people informed.

But the Philippines isn’t going to change and that is the fact I live with every day. Getting up to be at the SSS office for 5am just so my wife can get an ID card because they can only process so many in  a day I would here a western answer “why don’t they do overtime?” or “why don’t they get more staff” it isn’t going to happen its part of life here. Processing takes a long time so expect it infact my 13(a) residency visa is already complete and we asked to delay collecting it. It is the laid back attitude which brought so many people here in the first place and you have to take the rough with the smooth. I have neighbours with a multi-cab with excessive speakers which shake the building sometimes. I could complain about it but generally it doesn’t bother me because he is only there 5 mins before he drives off. Last week I had to go out for a break. Will Irwin’s response who I wrote about in a previous article was to buy 2 hectares to basically create distance between him and his neighbours.. The truth of the matter it was his ramblings that irritated me in the first place not the music. Because the truth of the matter its the grumpy old men that are getting under my skin. The constant whining and in fighting between several of them. The fact some will bad mouth others behind peoples backs to cut them out of contract work. I’m not on about my work by the way just something I know that went on between a local translator and two expats. Not sure what the one expat said to the translator but she stopped talking to the other Expat who had work for her. Why? because the one expat has issues with the other. Yet the other Expat it is all water under the bridge. These disputes between Expats are the sort of things why so many fail in the Philippines. The cutting ones nose off to spite the face is something I have seen too much of in the last two years and often why I look to stop writing as I’m disappointed with so many of the Expats that come to the Philippines. What stops me from quitting though is the Filipino community here and abroad who read the blogs because they enjoy my ramblings from a perspective that sort of sits between an Expat and a Filipino. Why my ramblings are a little different is probably due to my upbringing with a military family moving from country to country finding that you live between Military and local people in some sort of balance.

If you want to make a difference in the Philippines while living here teach people who want to learn. I’m not on about lecturing at a college etc. but the education of the kids that roam your area during the day. Maybe they lack the interest or money for education (moneywise schooling is free but all the add-ons cost money as the school uses it to help with its funds) but that is why its more important to teach them things that they will find interesting or useful. Starting with responsibility with such things as anti-graffiti and anti-littering as both of these contribute to degrading an area but also the clearing up of your area will hopefully stimulate others to take responsibility. I am currently just awaiting the concrete work to stop on the external of the Apartment as we will be adding plants along the roadside with fruits etc. free for people who want to pick them offering a small source of food but also cleans up the road a little adding a bit of colour.

It is always easy to be negative and it drags everyone down with it. The truth of the matter is you need to look at how to improve things not make them worse. If your in the Philippines respect that people are different here but at the same time if you want them to change you have to accept you need to change as well. You can hunt down literally thousands of negative posts on the Philippines but isn’t it about time people started posting about what they did to make things better instead?

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Living through frustration – The Philipines Mar 06

You have probably noticed im not my happy self lately. I have also put a lot of goods up for sale as well.. its not really a financial crisis but simply I need to get things completed. The first apartment is around 90% complete and already has a tenant. The second apartment needs construction to start ASAP to be ready on time. The big problem right now is generating more cash, I know a few readers will be thinking things are going wrong here but they aren’t its just purely timescale. Infact we have in the last month taken on someone part-time to help with chores such as ironing etc., a Yaya and a part-time attendant for the internet cafe. Ideally I need more thinking space to come up with new and lucrative ideas our budget is stable and covers not only our expenses and ongoing construction costs but I want apartment 2 to be able to push ahead a lot faster. Which of course is a big difference of finding P250,000 liquid cash to the P20,000 we have available for next construction projects per month. So this is where my frustration lies currently finding the P250,000. I will hopefully be supplying articles and information for a magazine shortly which hopefully will get things moving at least a little at worst will keep me occupied. The aquaponics I want to start soon but have so much going on I cant really dedicate enough time to guarantee the success so will be on the back burner for a little while more. Although Paps has had a chicken laying eggs all over the place so I got side tracked sorting out a design for an incubator that Paps constructed. We will hopefully see our first batch of chicks soon.

Anyway getting a little off tangent and it being nearly 2.30am its time to rest. If you have any money making ideas please add them on the comments below im all ears :-)

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Small business advice book for the Philippines Mar 06

I’m not normally one to promote E-Books simply because I find them overpriced for the information that is within them considering there is no real cost except the time it takes to write them. So what am I doing selling one here? Well simply for £2.00 you can purchase a small book around 18 pages long with Small business advice. Not full of facts and figures to boggle the mind but the reality of life in the Philippines and the ability and viability of how to start a business and what you need to be asking yourself before even spending your first Peso. So if you want to buy a piece of my knowledge for £2.00 Drop me an email to mattwilkie@tropicalpenpals.com and send a payment to PayPal mattwilkie@msn.com if you find TropicalPenpals.com useful please make a donation. I’m currently looking to expand projects and will need funding to do a more in depth life in the Philippines as I will look to make TropicalPenpals more of a Channel than a one dimensional blog.

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Expats in the Philippines overcharge incoming new expats FACT. Mar 04

I recently got someone adding a post into my old blog which is something I don’t mind if the author had even taken the time out to introduce himself before trying to add a cut and paste to an article (spamming). Its also the fact these type of expats are the ones who exploit other expats by false information. The “Retire in Paradise” approach to life but normally at a cost. Inside the post reply came a few links back to the expats site and me being me took a bit of time out to look at it and compare notes from other expats with things that have happened in the past.

BUILD a House in the Philippines?
- Expect minimum $40,000 (not included lot) for only 100 sq mt living area
BUY an existing House & Lot?
- Expect minimum $50,000 for only 100 sq mt living area
RENT a House?
- Expect minimum $300 per month for only 100 sq mt living area
- $600 per month for a beautiful big house

 

First thing was the pricing (as shown above) build a house for a minimum of $40,000 ? only if you haven’t got a clue what your buying and trusting people like the advertiser. Buying property is relatively cheap here still purely because of the way LOCAL business development hasn’t expanded. i.e. no point having thousands of houses at $40,000 because the local market can’t support the demand most people haven’t got that budget. But someone browsing the net unaware is unlikely to know that right?

But an existing for $50,000 for 100 sq mt ? Well to be honest if your in a sub division in Cebu I would expect to pay around $20,000+ for 100 sq mt. But then again I wouldn’t spend $50,000 purely because it could take years to resell if we decided to move and also the fact its based on Sub-division prices which are simply false pricing because there is no real MARKET VALUE to compare prices. So why spend $50,000 best value for money is to look for a house via Filipinos and not making people aware you are buying. But no doubt our friend advertising these facts will be able to help via his realtor friend at a good premium right?

Rent $300 a month upwards? Well we have a small 1 bedroom house that costs us around $60 a month and I would say most expats are paying more but a lot of it is down to choice and security. I wouldn’t live in a condo or a sub-division but for $300 you can probably squeeze a 2 bed house with enough looking inside a sub or a 1 bed condo. The reason most people rent is not down to the house value but simply you can make more money with the money you would have to pay for the house in the first place unless you went for a mortgage.

So what would my advice be? If your buying be aware there are always hidden faults inside properties and also making sure the deeds match what the people have been paying in tax because often people build without permits which means there are back taxes as well as some hassles with officials although nothing major could cost you a few pesos to make everyone happy.

Going to construct. Will Irwan (the person who replied to the post which is the site I’m taking these pieces from) will tell you not to trust a local builder and to go with a reputable company as there is a 15 year defect liability by law in the Philippines. But what a lot of people don’t realise is that if you want a Western home it costs Western money its not that much cheaper! quality always costs more and I wouldn’t trust anyone with something I am not managing myself. There has been cases of concrete being cut from the mixes so people can make a bit extra on the side. There is a huge hotel outside SM that has stayed unfinished for years because of some of the defects and a problems with cost cutting (cost cutting for stuff the company had already paid for!) if the large companies are prepared to screw over big players what about the new expat on the block? Paperwork is simply that.. PAPERWORK you want a good builder they come with recommendations and previous jobs you can inspect. Balls to all the certificates and guarantees. Same in the UK how many Corgi Plumbers are cowboys? Infact a local borough council in the West Midlands carries the Corgi stickers on its vehicles yet it doesn’t have one Corgi registered plumber. The stickers are old. So who can you trust in the Philippines a lot of the time its down to you and Google.

The thing is to take your time every person I have met with an investment opportunity of a life time for example Will Irwin is also talking about his $30,000 investment returning $1,000 a month for investing in Nuts as a pretty much guaranteed thing because they are hurricane resistant etc. etc. but nobody mentioned drought which is one thing I have heard from a few expats who got involved with Mahogany they simply ran out of water and died losing the entire investment. Or David Whittle with his hard sell on the Legacy group very pushy to get people to invest as it was a “guaranteed” income of easy money and even if it went bad the money is covered by PDIC insurance right? Well if that was the case he and many others wouldn’t be struggling to get money back that they invested.

  Your probably thinking I’m a bit negative on this post and its more to do with a wake up call for people who are arriving. Don’t trust people around you! Because they invested in something doesn’t mean its going to work out as they could be blind to it as much as you are except you are buying into their trust. If your wanting to buy a house and want to pay extra go via a realtor but to be honest I would rather take the time out and spend a couple of months looking myself and getting something at the right price. Your time looking would probably pay you off financially because realtor = commission but remember the commission is based on SALE PRICE which is why you can often see people paying upto 3 times the real value of properties. We were at the doctors yesterday and the doctor had her long list of Vitamins she wants to sell us because they are “essential” but the essential has two different meanings. Essential to her making money off us to help pay for her next free cruise from the company she sells for. Essentially I see little value or use of vitamins unless there is a shortage within someone’s body of a specific type and even then there is the old fashioned way of eating healthy.

Building property I wouldn’t advise for anyone with no knowledge or patience. You need to take time to monitor the quality and also the methods being used. Often some things don’t make any sense and its partly these reasons I am looking to start our own construction company in the future. Not because I want to “get rich” off expats but we are building our own properties and it just makes sense for us to build properties for others along the way. Nothing wrong with Will Irwan making money with his company and I wish him all the best. But most of these old guys I have met offering advice to others are out to make money as its how they manage to retire in the Philippines in the first place. In the last 2 and a half years I have been in the Philippines I have learned I trust the foreigners less than I do Filipinos. There are good amongst both groups but the conversations I have had with other Expats recently out of frustration have all come back with the same response.

So if your coming here to retire etc. look after your money because if you don’t someone else will. If you want a genuine friend and advice I offer both as a friend I would tell you the Philippines offers a wonderful life if you embrace it and keep your head screwed on at the same time. As an advisor if you have enough money to retire just find some small investments in the Philippines you can do yourself or with someone you really can trust. But most importantly something that will not destabilise your pension and living ability. If you have large amounts of money (above P3m) I would simply find something outside the country to do with it that is secure we are in difficult financial times worldwide and markets change in an instant. If anything I would probably advise buying a home in the UK for example and renting it out. It gives stable income and somewhere to go back to if things don’t work out. If your coming without a stable pension or income I would simply say keep your job in your home country and visit first and get to understand the country. Making an income is possible but not easy. Getting to grip with how things work is time consuming but can be done. Cost cutting and setting goals would probably be your only real viable way of doing it for a big move. What ever you read above or in any articles just think about whatever it is your reading. If it seems too good to be true or complete bull your opinion is the most important. Its your life, your money, your retirement.

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